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A soup bowl costs 12,000 – 13,000 yen (US$150). I admit it is very expensive.

But you may change your mind if you know its elaborate production method, saying it is worth a lot. Knowing a bit about the production method helps you choose the best item which can be used for the rest of your life.

 

Lacquer orUrushi in Japanese is a natural material obtained from the sap of lacquer trees. There are a variety of lacquereware available here in Japan.  As I talked about it before in the ”Things to do in Wajima”,  Wajima is one of the most famous cities for its high quality lacquereware. 

What makes Wajima so special among a variety of lacquerware?

Wajima lacquerware require many processes. It reaches up to 124 different processes. First, the lumber used for the wooden base needs to be dried for a few years.

 

These complex processes are mainly divided into 5 fields:

1.BASE MAKING, 2.FIRST COATING, 3.MIDDLE COATING, 4.FINAL COATING and 5.DECORATION.

During these processes, many coats of lacquer are applied.  I was startled by the fact that each field is meticulously handled by an independent craftsman. Depending on how elaborate the design is, the price changes.

If you want to transform yourself to be a temporary craftsman who is in charge of decoration, I would recommend that you go to the studio called ”KOBO NAGAYA (工房長屋)” where you can learn either the Makie technique(Sprinkling gold powder on patterns drawn on the surface) or the Chinkin technique (Inlaying gold in grooves made by carving).

 

It cost only 1500 yen to make your own chopsticks. We experienced Chinkin technique, 沈金, (Inlaying gold in grooves made by carving) this time.

   

All you have to do is to think about your design and practice carving it on a given lacquered base. Then, you start to carve your patten on the surface of chopsticks with a needle. Even if you go with good friends, everybody becomes quite during carving

 

After carving, lacquer will be applied as glue. And press the gold powder into the grooves later. Be careful not to touch the lacquer directly because it may cause a rash to your skin. Because of that, ancient people believed that lacquer had a special power to ward off evil.

Here you’ve got your personal chopsticks which exist only one in  the world!

Learning about the lacquer items will surely spice up your travel in Wajima.  Using a sap of lacquer trees gives wooden items durability so that you can use them for a long time.  Ancient people knew this effect not to waste the blessings of nature. In that sense, we can say that lacquerware has been Eco-friendly since old days. 

I hope you would be able to find the one in Wajima.

Studio Nagaya (工房長屋) 　http://ringisland.jp/nagaya/

Address:4 – 66 – 1, Kawaimachi, Wajima city, Ishikawa prefecture

Operation Hour:  9am – 6pm (Wed Holiday)  

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When you come to Wajima, I would like you to drop by this shop. WAJIMAYA  ZENIN(Japanese only) where boasts bicentennial anniversary this year. You will be captivated by their products. It looked like a small museum to me. I loved it.

 Wajimaya Zennin

Located a few minutes walk from Asaichi street where the morning market is held, there is a shop. I knew this shop by word of mouth. This shop doesn’t spend money in advertising.

 

Upon entering the shop, you will be surrounded by the high-quality items. When it comes to lacquerware, I am most familiar with tableware such as Miso-soup bowls, chopsticks, plates etc. But those were not all at this shop.

  

Feel free to enlarge the photo on your left side. This is a lacquered toilet. It was just amazing. I just astonished to see this toilet and forgot what I had to do. It was so beautiful. After I left the toilet, I found the public phone is also a lacquer item. Then I started to take a close look at things in this shop.  I felt something different from other shops in Wajima.

 

I would suggest that you visit 2nd and 3rd floor too. You can tell them nicely so that a staff will take you to the special floor. On the way, you can find lacquer items again.

 

It is a pity that there were a lot of blurred photos. I was that excited to enter into the lacquered floor under lacquered ceiling with a beautiful design.

 

I thought this was a seemingly normal bowl, but it was not normal.

 

 

I bought a soup bowl to be used as a family treasure. This cup will be passed down from generation to generation. Please don’t be surprised. This single cup costs 17800yen (US$200)

Why is Wajima lacquerware so expensive?

I will talk about the detail in next episode.

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◇WAJIMA ZENIN　 輪島屋　善任

Address:  1-82-3, Kawaimachi, Wajima city, Ishikawa prefecture. Zip: 928-0001 Tel: 0768-22-5811

* You can also see part of their products in Ginza, Tokyo!  The infomation is as follows. Their products are displayed 4th floor at Ginza Natsuno.  

◇GINZA NATSUNO home store 食器専門店「銀座夏野本店」

Address:6-7-4 Ginza, Chuoku, Tokyo Zip: 104-0061 Tel: 03-3572-1911

As I mentioned in the previous ariticle ”Things to do in Wajima”, there are two types of Japanese inns. One is Ryokan, the other isMinshuku. If you are on a tight budget, still want to stay at Japanese style inns, Minshuku is your choice in Wajima. Minshuku runs in the same way as a Ryokan,  normally managed by one family. They may not be able to offer five-star services with a number of hot springs. But I like reasonable Minshuku. Why? It is so laid back.   

 

I stayed one night at a family-run inn ” TANAKA (お宿　田中)” in Wajima.

 

Once I stepped onto the lacquer-applied floor, somehow I felt so calm and relaxed. At this inn, you don’t have to put on sandals as they would like you to feel a certain lacqure warmth from the natural benefits.

 

When you enter this inn, you can also find lacquered household items such as shelves and tables , which provide a  pleasant, soothing ambience. 

You need to share the lavatory here.

 

Rooms didn’t have a very nice view, but those were cozy enough. Just for your note, many inns in Japan have different price ranges for different rooms. Left room is for 2 pax and right is for 4 – 6 pax. They charge by the number of guests.

 

But more than anything else, serving good food to guests is a key to success for Japanese inns. Here, you can have your dinner, served with Wajima-nuri, lacquerware for which Wajima is famous. You will be amazed by its presentation. So beautiful. On top of that, you can get a free lacquered chopsticks for your souvenir after the meal. What a great service!  Would you like to know  How the taste was? It was excellent!

 Breakfast

Verdict: You don’t have nice view rooms and you have to do your bedding on your own, but I had a great time at this Minshuku. I would like to come back here for the future visit again. Good food &  a homey ambience.  I paid about 10000yen including two great meals, which was a good deal.     

EXJ ratings for this inn are: Food 10,  Rooms 6,  Location 8,  Cleanliness 10,  Service 9,  Hotspring 6

EXJ ratings (10+6+8+10+9+6)= 49/60!!  

Oyado Tanaka お宿たなか　www.oyado-tanaka.jp  

Address: 22-38 Kawaimachi, Wajima, Ishikawa Prefecture 928-0001, Japan Tel & Fax: 0768-22-5155  Rate： from 9500 yen including 2 meals onwards per pax.

Where is WAJIMA???

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Located in the north of Noto islands in Ishikawa prefecture, Wajima is famous not only for its lacquerware but also a morning market. I visited Wajima for the first time last weekend, and I would like to share ” THINGS  TO DO IN WAJIMA” for your reference. 

 

   
Find your LACQUERWARE!
When it comes to traditional lacquerware, Wajima is one of the most famous cities for its high quality items called Wajima-nuri. To be called Wajima-nuri, it must require 124 processes!! Such lacquered items can help add a sense of luxury to your meal. Walk around the lacquere shops along either Asaichi street or Waichi street and get lacquere items that you can use for the rest of your life. Lacquereware is a perfect souvenir in Japan!    

   

Carve your own patterns on your lacquere chopsticks!  
I visited a studio where you can experience one of the production processes. After carving your patterns, you inlay gold into the grooves. Wajima studio NAGAYA （輪島工房長屋） can offer a unique lacquerware making experience.

    

STAY at MINSHUKU, less expensive Japanese inns
There are two types of Japanese inns. One is a Ryokan, the other is Minshuku. If you are on a tight budget, I would sugget that you stay at a Minshuku. But you can’t underestimate a Minshuku stay with limited services. I received a hearty reception at a Minshuku called, Tanaka in Wajima!!  

     

WATCH a Taiko performance, GOJINJODAIKO, 五陣乗太鼓
A local Japanese drum performance is held almost everyday. It normally starts around 8pm – 8:30pm in front of MICHINOEKI. This dynamic performance dates back to the 16th century, registered as intangible cultural assets by the city of Wajima. How much do you need to pay? No worry. It is free of charge. Don’t miss a photo taking session with them after the performance. 
 

      

Visit a morning market attracting a number of tourists & locals.  
Asaichi street (朝市通り), about 360 meter long,  is lined with shops on both sides, nearly 200 – 250 in all. It starts at around 8am and until 11:30am. It is quite a beautiful scene, attracting a number of people. A morning market in Wajima is one of the three most famous morning markets in Japan!!  You must visit this place!

   

Exploring other area near Wajima town
Here are other places near Wajima I visited during the last stay. 20 mins drive from Wajima brings you one of the most famous & beautiful rice paddy fields in Japan. This place is called Senmaida (千枚田). And another half an hour drive can reach a open cafe built within the Buddhist temple grounds. This place is called Kinokoe (木の音). Finally Near Anamizu city, there is a Japanese winery called Noto Winery(能登ワイン). You may be able to get a unique Japanese wine here.

Here are the simple introduction on Wajima. Let me talk about them in detail for the next episode! Wajima, facing the sea of Japan, is a small fishing village filled with the power to make people want to visit. I was definitely one of them

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